Posted by TARRAGONA
Part 3 of our 2026 Euro adventure saw us drive from Barcelona to the Costa Dorado town of Tarragona and booking at the delightful Modernista Lapety Hotel which was just a 15 -20 min walk into the old town centre…if it was not so bloody hot ! the big bonus was that we had a lovely room and there were only a total of 9 rooms and a very refreshing swimming pool to enjoy.
After venturing into town for a meal we settled on a few little stops for snacks instead and wandered the town and Plazas as they were preparing for St John’s eve celebrations which we were warned were to be massive and incredibly noisy. So we made sure we did not hang around and got back to our Hotel to see and listen at a distance. Our first day was spent exploring the inland country and visiting one of the most significant Monasteries in Spain with a deep connection to the Royal Family of Aragon. Poblet Monastery is set in the L’Espluga de Francoli countryside in a highly productive farming and wine region of Catalonia.
The complex was immense and now involves a college and Hotel in addition to the still running Monastery. The history was fascinating suffice it to say the Kings, Queens and associated princes and princesses are buried here.
The working spaces of the monks where they made wine and processed all the farm produce was extensive and is now museum space but the Monk zone, cloisters and church are spectacular with fascinating design features and a real sense of serenity.
The main dormitory hall was an incredible size and surprised with its engineering and light design features.
The kings burial crypt was unlike anything we had ever seen as it was suspended by a low arched structure in the centre of the Royal church. Such an amazing piece of engineering from the 14th century.
We cant resist cloisters wherever we go and this one was special on many levels with serene gardens and multiple columns structure.
The Monastery walls were like a fortress as it was always a treat of further incursions from the moors to the south in the 11th century.
On our way back to Tarragona we stopped in at one of the sights we were keen to see as anything Roman has got to be explored. The Ferreres Aqueduct was built in the 1st century BC and is a perfectly preserved example of their ingenuity. I imagine there would have been plenty more along the route but they were such great quarries for the populous after the fall of the empire and helped build many palaces and churches.
Our next adventure was back into town to visit the famous Tarragona Cathedral which is regarded as one of Spains most significant religious site (and they have a few). Built on top of what was a massive Roman Temple conceded to th forum and local Palace as Tarragona was one of the Major Roman cities of Spain. It was then turned into a Visigoth church and then a moorish Mosque before being rebuilt in the 12th century in Romanesque/Gothic styles. there are so many chapels and hidden nooks and crannies but the Virgin Mary Chapel behind the main altar is the most impressive with its 13th century frescoes and sculptures. the details and craftsmanship are stunning.
The amazing thing about this church is its variety and history with elements dating back to the Roman temple and parts of the Visigoth church and Mosque as well.
Around the city of Tarragona there are parts of every age blended into everyday life from the Moderista Slaughterhouse (below) behind the original Roman walls to the last remaining wall of the Roman Forum and Renaissance Palacio’s built around Roman ruins, Middle Ages apartment buildings built on top of Roman Porticoes, Tarragona is living and breathing its history around every corner.
The Cathedral is siting above the original Roman forum steps and there is even an ancient drinking fountain at its base right next to a shopping portico from the 1st century BC.
The Cathedral entry is a fabulous example of jamming as much into an impressive entry as you can get with saints and I imagine sinners galore glorified on its walls.
The cloisters are another perfect example of a serenity zone for those lucky enough to be able to enjoy the beauty and safety and i think the Spanish did it so very well.
In amongst al the history there are some great early 20th century designs to be seen around town, from entry gates to Palacio’s to the obligatory Modernist Mercado’s that seem to exist in every major Spanish city or large town. And of course every town has to have its Umbrella hanging section in a Plaza.
Being right on the coast at Tarragona and it being insanely hot every day we had to get to the beach and along this coast are some stunning beaches along with some very average ones with train lines running beside them or highways hugging the coast. But the majority is beautiful and our choice of the Platja (beach) de la Mora was a fabulous choice with its lovely golden sand and warm waters it filled our salt water souls and then invited us to enjoy a nice lunch in the beachside Taberna to escape the heat. Just 20 mins to the north east it was pleasant drive and a great find.
REUS
Our next stop was the historic city of Reus not far inland to the North west of Tarragona which also happens to be the birth place of Barcelonas two most famous Modernist Architects Antoni Gaudi and his teacher Lluis Domenech Montaner. The city is full of stunning Moederist buildings and the Architectural trail has no less that 40 significant buildings in the town centre alone. The prize one is the Casa Navas which is one of Domenech’s master strokes of urban design which was built between 1901 and 1908.
The entry really sets the scene for what is to come and as the ground floor was a large shop for the owners textile and clothing business which still thrives today in its original location. The residence on the upper two floors is considered the best preserved turn of the century interiors in Europe and survived the Spanish civil virtually intact apart from a blown up corner tower and a blown out window and damaged room from a bomb blast next door. the lead light stained class windows are both interior and exterior and are considered the best ever seen in a private residence which is totally understandable.
The stunning Skylight was damaged during the bombing but has been fully restored and the flooding of light down the two level staircase fills the whole hose with light. this light we’ll and its ornate extravagant design was a result of the architect having no budget and the licence to do as he pleased.
Every room had its unique character, from cosy nooks and fireplaces to light filled reception rooms and sumptuous bedrooms, this casa has it all.
The original nartworks such as sculpturs and timber inlaw panels were all designed for thec home so had so much more meaning.
We wandered the streets to capture as much of its essence as we could in the 35 deg heat and every corner revealed some other touch of class, practicality or modernist floral delight and whimsey
Ceramic flowers adorned lots of dwellings so were clearly a signature of one particular Architect and the local school is such a perfect example of modernist flair in public buildings below.
There is something about combining sculpture and other forms of art , whether intended or not and capturing on film the juxtaposition. And even new facades of much older buildings have been done with such style.
It was time for another beach and this time it was at Tamarit Beach but it was not a patch on Platja de Mora but always good to get wet and enjoy a drink in the shade by the beach..
ATAFULLA
Nearby was town we had been told to visit by many people called Atafulla so off we went. Located on a hill just a few kms from the beach, it is an old town that has retained its charm and originality whilst being dragged into the 21st century with classy hotels in old Palacio’s and a string of highly fancied restaurants as well. Yet the heart of the town is still probably 90% original and proud residences. We wandered, enjoyed and moved on all the better for the experience.
SITGES
Further up the coast and just a 45min drive we arrived for lunch at Sitges, the jewel in the crown of the Costa del Garraf on the Barcelona Coast. We were recommended to go to a resturant about 10 min walk away so we grabbed the shady side of the streets and foundan outside table and enjoyed the house special at Restaurant Sitges Bon Estar. Then it was time to check into our Hotel on the beachfront and also escape the heat again.the view was lovely and we could see that this was going to be a great wandering town.
Sitges is the Gay capital of spain and there was plenty of Pride flags, streamers and venues in the city centre. We figured it was going to be a very vibrant place at night and it certainley was with plenty of fun and frivolity all around us.
One of the big highlights we wanted to be sure that we visited was the Palau Maricel with its Moorish inspired Loggia and terrace which was in a word..exceptional, a real blend of so many culyures and architectural styles in the one place. Built in 1913 it echos times gone by and was built for American collector Charles Deering (Tractor fame) and he wanted something authentic for his collections and blended Catal Noucentisme with Reaissance and Morrish elements to create a beautiful timeless building.
The eclectic nature of the building extended to The big open terrace which connected the formal and informal rooms of the Casa and picked up beautiful sea breezes….when its not so hot, and of course the lovely sea views as well.
The blue tiles were very Portugese in style and the attention to detail was extraordinary and the formal rooms were like a palacio from days gone by.
Across the road was The Farat Museum and the Museum section of the Palau Maricel and each were well worth the visit
The Promenade of Sitges was beautifully executed with pedestrian prominance and open beach access with sculptures, artwork and an abundance of Belle Epoc and Modernist building adorning the seahore
Surrounding the headland between Sitges two beaches are an abundance of Palacio’s, little parks and Public buildings that highlight the significance of this coastal resort town over the centuries.
Walking the streets at night when it was far more pleasant than the day time enabled us to see more of the real life and its charachter and we also found some great dining options for our 2 nights here. Our favourite was La Punta de Sitges on the Career sant Damia with great food, service and atmosphere.
The Palau Maricel Museum was an extension of the Casa and just across the road on the waterfront and was just another space to store Derrings extensive collection of stuff from all over his travels, especially in Spain. probably the best Plate and bowl collection we have seen.
we loved our time here and really took advantage of our two nights to explore on foot every inch we could