Dalmatian Coast, Croatia: July 2019

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The ferry from Korcula to Split took a very scenic route past Hvar which gave a very open view to the mainland mountains and the open waters of the Adriatic. We stopped in at Hvar briefly and then it was just a short ride into the big bay of Split Harbour where we were picking up our car.





We picked up our car in Split and then drove up the coast to Primosten and the picture below is our first view of the town which at first looked like a mini Korcula being once an island Fortress and now connected. It has beaches on either side and is a total resort town with more beaches around the area than we have seen in the region.


once we settled into our apartment we quickly realised that we may have made a mistake as the location although on paper was right on the beach it was also right in the middle of the action.. Our first meal was out on the seawall and the sunset was stunning and the activity of kids and holiday makers was very pleasant and relaxed.



The stretch before the dive at sunset, our fabulous tasting plate and the rock sculptures.


Bean bags on the rocks and total chill time in Primosten with promenade time for all.


We wandered around the old Fortress town and checked out the repurposed goat pens, now fresh fast food outlets and shops as well as plenty of reminders of days no so long ago gone by.

But we only lasted two of the scheduled five nights despite its charms but with rain and noise it was not worth staying so off we went!


We moved on from Primosten due to the incessant noise from the bar below us and settled into a resort with a difference called  Crvena Luka Hotel & Resort near Bio Grad au Moru which was just a 45 min drive up the coast. The port town was not as manic as Primosten and there were plenty of holiday makers and a good atmosphere for wandering. The resort was really well done and spears out in small two storey apartment blocks of four units and there were people from all over Europe enjoying its pristine bay and forest setting .


The white sandy beach and ocean floor stretched out around 200m in a gentle slope to deeper water so everyone was catered for

This was classed as a WHITE FLAG beach as the environment was pristine and they had to keep it that way which was so different to many areas along the coast. The natural bay was really well looked after and the man made improvements were very well executed to keep it as natural as possible considering about of Croatians with concrete mixers !!


From every angle it was stunning and the swimming was simply devine. there were little jetties to climb in and out of the water and deck chairs everywhere

We spent three days at the resort and on our second day we hired a boat and went exploring out to the islands off the coast. There were some inhabited and others free of mankind and the bays were stunning on all.

First stop was Otok Vrgada which we anchored off and had a swim in the bay off the town of Vrgada and then ambled our way along the shoreline to the pristine bay of Sidriste Kranje Vrgada where we were hoping the little summer cafe would be open but we were too early so anchored and swam to shore. Even though the bay seemed clear of plastics and debris the shore showed signs of wash up plastics which proves it is everywhere in Croatia.


We then made our way across the open water to Otok Tkon and the popular Owsik’s Bay where there was a bit of Nudie boating going on to match ups with the extensive naturalist camps throughout the region. we had a very average lunch at the Knoba there and then made our way back along the edge of the big island to Biograd and the fuel stop. Back at the resort we spent the afternoon swimming in the beautiful bay and that  night we dined at the Italian restaurant Il Moro on the point at Crvena Luka resort which was a stunning setting but an average meal.

The next day we went back into town for lunch and explored the back streets and of course the church before having drinks down on the bay to say farewell.

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