Posted by BANDON
Next stop on the ancestry hunt was a rather non-descript regional town that for some reason has produced an unfair share of famous Irish people. So much so that they have a huge poster in the centre of town with 12 of them, including Graham Norton. But from an ancestry perspective it was Ann’s family tree with The Ryan family was our purpose in visiting. We did not find a lot but there was connection to a Poor House for women in Bandon and a possible Chruch there that we could not find but then checked in at Cork for other connections.
The road into Kinsale from Bandon was a mix or regional and national roads winding through the hills and dales and through one of the best tree tunnels we have ever encountered. A few ruins along the way is to be expected but this single wall below takes the cake for almost total obliteration.
KINSALE
The entry into Kinsale is along the River Bandon which is a wide stretch of water that makes Kinsale harbour such a cruicial defense centre. Boats can go up river a fair distance to Bandon and the safe twisting harbour makes ideal refuge and protection…but not always as the Irish and rebel forces discovered in the 16th century when the English surpised them by force coming from the land side…opps. The town is a blast of bright colours, so no pastel subtley here, it in your face and proud especially around the 4 Market roads, called Street, Square, Place and Quay just to avoid confusion.
We were fairly selective at where we ate but found it was hard to get into the places we wanted but ended up at a really nice Indian called the Cobra Tandori in Main street.
Plenty of Pubs and plenty of music of every description from solo players to Duets, to full loud bands and the poet, something for everyone. 14 pubs and bars we counted and we enjoyed muic in about 4 of then with the best being The Blue Haven Hotel and bar on Pearse street with a great duo covering some of our favourite tunes.
The Dutch inspired and built Market House,(below) and then Court house, and now museum was built in 1620 and shows a true sense of style and longevity as the test of time has proven.
What we love about having the freedom of a car is what we can do on the side and going out to the Charles Fort on Kinsale open Harbour gave us such a great insight into the history of this lovely town and how fickle history is when it comes who who wins and who loses battles. Suffice it to say The British just knew how to battle, trick, coherse and bribe their enemies into submission better than anyone
The Twisting Kinsale harbour from Charles Fort.
The ruined Fort that housed one housed thousands of troops in its peak useage is now a monument, for want of a better word to over 300 years of dominance and its symbols.
Back in town there were more lanes, landmarks and history to explore as we covered every inch of the main town and its environs.
Two great landmarks are the “Women make History” stairs and the Spaniard Hotel mural that pay homage to the turns of history in the region.
And now to the winner of the Coffee truck award which goes to The BLUE van of Kinsale with its high quality Coffee and food, great music and awesome service and vibe ( the Kinks were playing )
The Eclectic nature of Kinsale was evident everywhere and of course Ann was immediatley attracted to The Stone Mad Gallery where some good purchasers were made
We could not resit buying a few copies of the Golden Fairy Book which was written by Amanda and she was thrilled to see us. The “A SCHEDULE”, found in the ground floor of the old Market house was a facinating read and dates back to 1788 when everything that was bought and sold in town was taxed without exception…check out the list. On our last night in Kinsale and we had a fabulous meal at the Bia Kinsale Resturant in Main Street .
CORK CITY
When we met Karina & Pat Healy in Waterville she invited us to visit where she works in Cork at the Nano Nagle Centre, where the charity works to help various institutions, but generally, they are community and educational facilities named after the 18th-century philanthropist Nano Nagle. Set up to edicate young disadvantaged girls the centres are rooted in the values of social justice and whole-person development that Nano Nagle championed. Some also serve as historical sites or places of peace and reflection, connected to her work with the poor and sick through the association with the Presentation sisters Abbey. The centre was very impressivec as was the work they all over the world and are now operating schools in Australia
The Abbey was so serene and beautiful and then the cafe was a real revelation serving such high quality food in a beautiful quiet garden setting in the Abbey grounds.
We had an afternoons wanderings through the streets of downtown Cork through the English Markets and saw some amazing mural works and art installations but the Box house head and that EYE,, below was haunting.
There was a baptism association with Ann’s Great Great Grandmother in Cork with the St Fin Barre’s cathedral so we checked it out and were really impressed with the purple coloured ceiling detail from the 18th century
The canal arm of the River Lee that runs through Cork giving it an island town Centre
Brick lane was the funkiest spot we found , but young Finnbar was the star knocking out some insane traditional Irish songs on his little amp with his dad nearby keeping him safe…Idol here he comes.
