Posted by ATAMI
We dropped the car off at Kyoto staion and walked across the road to get our train tickets… should be easy we thought but foir some reason this time it was different machines and when we finally got to talk to someoine and were directed to the right area it was quick and easy and off we went in the comfort of the first class seats on the Shinkassen to Atami. we were hoping for a good view of Mt Fuji and we got a beauty with just a bit of cloud hanging around the peak, which is very common.
It only took 90 mins to arrive in Atami and it would have been a 3.5 hr drive so well woth the price fopr the ease of it all. We picked up another car from Toyota and were into our very nive Onsen Hotel before we knew it after a 10 min drive through town. We dressed for dinner in our PJ’s and enjoyed a fabulous feast with chefs cooking right in front of us. We considered this food to be best we had had on the trip.
The design Hotel was beautifully executed and is only 5 years old with super spacious suite style western rooms with balcont onsen hot tub. and roof top bar with a view of the ocean and town.
This is very much an Art Hotel and the essence is absolute simplicty throughout the whole establishment
We wanted to visit this well know 1919 residential villa complex called Kiunkaku in the centre of town and it did not disappoint with a real mix of tradition and modern western influence set in beautiful japanese gardens. it was the hub of social life for the well to do and International visitors, artists, writers and movie stars and the eclectic european influences are facinating.
There was a small gallery inside and these 5 Fuji-san paintings caught our eye as the seasonal depictions of the #1 feature of Japan.
The Beachfront of Atami is one of the pre-eminent resorts for beach goers in Japan and is packed in summer. Its white/grey sands are fine and the waters clean plus the boating harbour comes alive as spring kicks into gear with safe watrers and plenty of open sea around so clise to Tokyo.
The main shrine in Atami is the Kinomiya Shinto Shrine which features the 2nd widest tree trunk in japan, and possibly the oldest…well why not. Okusu, a Camphor tree may not be tall as it once was and was struck by lightening many years ago but it is still alive and kicking after 2,100 years.
We ventured up into the mountains above Atami and would our way to the top past residentail areas, forests and all the way past Cherry blossom trees in full bloom in the wild. we attaempted the climb to reach the summit of Mountb Kurotake to capture uninterupted views of Mt Fuji but despite the good weather on the Atami side of thec Izu peninsular the Numazu side was the opposite with cold winds, rain and low clouds so no Fuji -san views for us.
The Atami Castle sits in a commanding position on the headland and was a critical Edo period fortification which like many castles has burnt down and being rebuilt many times. this one was destroyed in WW@ and rebuilt in the 1970’s in full traditional style from the original plans
The Japanese really do parks and gardens so well and Atami had a beauty in the Atami Baien gardens set in a valley with flowing stream running through it to allow the creation of some lovely bridges and waterfalls.
Another expedition was the the wonderful ACAO Forest Park just south of Atami that winds up the mountain side in a series of terraced gardens and valleys that have been beautifully landscaped and planted over many years. The results were spectacular with the spring blooms and blossoms putting on a great show as we wound our way back down the moutain side after being taken up in a small mini bus.
There were some world famous features in the Park with the worlds largest Bonsai tree as well as the worlds longest Bonsai tree branch right next to each other. So Atami has a few of the words best things on display.
A stunning Cherry tree in full bloom with the first of the green leaves coming out to add to the stunning effect.
Another famous part of the park is the amazing COEDA House Cafe with its Jenga style central structure supported on the side with narrow steel posts to keep it stable and rigid as all the weight is trasferred to the centre due to the design elements.
We enjoyed a delightful morning tea inside with a cheery blosson ice-cream soda drink and cup cake with soya bean cake as well.
This was a wonderful discovery and we enjoyed decending down the valley to find what was around each corner.
The views to the coast and hillsides revealed some facinating sights with a smugglers cove and an outstanding 1930’s art deco mansion clinging to the side of the cliffs.
That afternoon we drove down the coast a bit before heading into the Atami town centre and the railway station arcades which are really popular in japan and this one was beauty with lots of people, lots of atmosphere, a few laughs, a great tshirt shop and the best dried fish displays we have seen.
HAKONE
The drive from Atami to Hakone took us up and over the mountains along the Izu Skyline road that took us quickly to lake Ashinoko and along the way we enjoyed stunning views over Cape Ose and the Fuji Bay. arriving at the lake we stopped for lunch and a wander around Hakone-Ekiden on the lake shore where we walked around Onshi hakone park and the Hakone Sekisho samurai fortress where we met some lovely ladies painting up a treat on the shore. they loved the attention and were very happy to have thier photo taken.
The forest park looks over the lake to the famous Torii of peace that is set in the waters on the shore of Hakone-jinja that leads up to the bigger shrine on the hillside.
Our accomodation was located in the Hakone Miyanoshita area as Hakone is not just one town but a series of about 10 different locations and train stations that make up the Hakone district so very confusing if you were not aware. We checked into the Hakone Ginyu Onsen Hotel and were treated to a lovely welcome before being showed into our super spacious japanese style suite and the fabulous outdoor terrace and onsen spring hot tub. The mountain views were stunning even in the rain.
While Ann enjoyed a lovely quite soak i headed off down the valley to nthe river and on the way i came across a bear warning sign that told me, should you see a bear, do not panic or make any noise, just slowly walk backwards quietly and you should be ok….thank you google translate. no bers were seen in the valley and in fact a japanese guy coming back up told me they are rarely sighted in the area.
A beautiful Traditional inn has been transformed in the 1920’s into stunning Hotel and was in the centre of town and we loved its eclectic mix of Tradition and Art Nouveau styles.
Cocktail time under the blanky at the Hakone Ginyu Onsen bar before our first in-room dining experience as the chill mountain air started to set in. The design elements of the Hotel were very stylish and fitted the whole vibe of the place very well.
All dressed up in our PJ’s on the deck ready for dinner
The rain and our Hot Tub was a lovely atmosphere.
we were facing a fullon wet day on our last day so we thought out a few things to do and one was the Hakone, Venice Glass Museum, and what a good choice for a wet day it was. Indoors and outdoors with Wisteria glass and glass cherry trees and waterfalls it was areal delight.
We attempted a visit to the two other museums in the diostrict but the crowds and wet weather made it to hard to both so instead we settled for an amazing road side Cherry Tree culvert display that was extraordinary. Such a rarety to see the deep pink flowered trees in such abundance and also at thier peak. Most trees on the plains has passed thier peak but with a bit of elevation it was perfect timing and despite the rain we took a really good look.
The two food choices on our last day, Burger lunch at Box Burger and then total gourmet at the Hotel.
Time to head for home and we dropped the car off at Odawara station which was right next to the Odawara castle so of course we had to take a look and then it was back on the Snihkassen to Tokyo and then the Narita Express to the airport. So ends another fabulous time in one of our favourite OS destinations
Walk this way to the castle, such a great way to show the way. So long Japan.
