Posted by We arrived in Japan via Haneda Airport and spent the night at the Airport Hotel before heading off to catch the Shinkassen fast train to Toyama the next morning.
The train took us along the expansive flats of greater Tokyo through the start of the Northern Alps at Takasaki and along the valley to Nagano and into the serious mountains around Hakuba where snow was still prolific on the peaks before emerging on the coast near Asahi.
We arranged to pick up the car from Toyota at Toyama Station and after a lunch near the station the process of getting the car was very simple and off we drove to Kurobe Gorge and the Unazuki Onsen town at Enraku Ryokan Onsen.
KUROBE GORGE
Its was pretty cold and there was light drizzle as we arrived and when we checked into our Onsen Suite we noticed that the rain has turned to sleet and then snow. we were sitting in the hot tub when we realised and watched as the whole scene in front of us over the Kurobe river changed into a blanket of white.
The tub was a perfect 41 deg and is aclaimed as the best waters in Japan as the mineral combination comprises the best of the best, and it has certificates to prove it! The view over the valley hills and mountains behind was very misty and etherial and as more snow fell the light from the hotel lit up the hills and created a spectacular scene.
We ate like kings with the extensive Ryokan fare covering 13 courses and part of the deal was to dress in Traditional Yakusa celebration clothing at dinner time and to wear whilst inside the Hotel. Our room was traditional Japanese style with Tatami mat floors and Futon floor beds that were very comfortable so long was there were two each.
The next morning we awaoke to a stunning sight as it has snowed all night with temperatures down to -5 deg and at -1 by 7am. there was a complete whiteout which was something we had not expected but were delighted to see.
After breakfast we ventured out into the chill as rugged up as we could and enjoyed a sunny walk around town, up to the gorge bridges and through to the town lookout and museum/art gallery. it a very small place and we ate at the gallery before coniusing to circumvaigate every street and park there was.
We drove down to coast to Asahi to see the Cherry blossoms along the canal with the snow covered mountains in the background and tulips in bloom in the foreground but we were about a week too early to capture it at its best, but that is the joy of travel, sometimes you nail it and other times you just get what it is, and that is great.
KANAZAWA
The next stop took us along the coast just an hours drive to the west to the coast of the Sea of Japan and Kanazawa. We had a bit of rain on the way and when we arrived but it cleared up and allowed us to explore straight away what the city had to offer. Our Ryokan was right beside the Castle and its extensive gardens and in fact we could see the castle from our room through the trees.
The Hakuchoro Hotel was very traditional and very spacious with big suites but no private onsen tubs, but that was ok for a few nights as the location was great and the beds very comfortable. First stop was to wander down to the Omicho Markets and score some local lunch fare and on the way we found our first Sakura inn full bloom as well as a lovely traditional house to view, plus a visit from a rather large Kite who was checking us out.
Modern Kanazawa narrow tall house and beautiful internal rice paper screening in the Kuromommae house with the two phase wall system..
After lunch at a locals resturant at the markets we walked to Kanazawa station to see the modern and famous Tsuzumi Gate (below) before heading back for a rest.
Nicely rested we headed off to the Kenrokuen imperial gadens adjacent to the castle which are considered the best in japan and even though the sakura was not in full bloom we understood why and all the nooks and crannies, lakes, ponds and garden layouts were spectacular. its the beautiful detail of hundereds of years care and design that goes into these gardens that intruiges us and keeps us wanting more.
Every path led to another zone with different foliage and design elenets with water and sakura as the wow elements.
Located next to the castle bridge and gates, the gardens loop around a low hill that drops back down to the national gallery area and on the other side a series of historical temples so the location was so easily accesible to so many sights.
We stopped for a tea break at the delighful Kenrokuen Miyoshian tea house located over the water and enjoyed our green tea and bean paste snack.
We headed over the bridge past the shops and food outlets and entered the castle grounds and found a beautiful sakura display in the Castle gardens but decided that as it was getting dark and cold that we would come back to explore the castle further the next morning and instead headed off to the Higashi Chaya Distict which is reknown for its Geisa Tea houses to find a meal for the night.
The Higashi district was as silent as a mouse and did not really get going until later we found out so we wanrered around looking for opening and just found a beautiful small temple and took a peek inside and were amazed at the beauty and richness of it all.
The morning was sunny and a real nice change, still chilly but we got out and began to explore further beyond the castle grounds, walls and interiors after checking out all the historical bits.
The rain appeared again and we were prepared but after a trip around the 21st century gallery we took a taxi to the samurai district Chuodorimachi and wandered around the lanes and canals before enjoying another tea house break. some of the houses were 600 years old and in very good condition considering
We walked across Nagamachi district to the Oyama-jinja Shrine before crossing over the bridge to the Gyokusen Immaru Gardens that are part of the castle park where a mini island fantasy with miniture pine trees and bridges were created to amuse the court.
Having missed out on the dinner the night before due to no booking we did not make that mistake again and we secured seats at a fabulous BBQ grill resturant which was exactly what we were after,
Our fancy umbrellas from the hotel really stood out waking around that night as we checked out the castle night lighting.
Our last morning in Kanazawa and we headed over the river and its 100 year old iron bridge to the Nomachi temple district to visit the Myoryu-ji Temple with its anti Ninja defences and samurai hideouts. all very fanciful considering it never got attacked but the nobility and the monks had to make stiries up about fictious ememies to keep the plebs obedient! Sounds like nothing has changed.
The Stunning weeping cherry treesat Myoryu-ji Temple
We were heading off to our next overnight stay at Beniya Mukaya Ryokan in the hills near Kaga Ishikawa on the north coast. It is a very fancy joint and has architecture awards all over it as well as resturant awards as well. It was nice but a bit over the top for us and the food was nothing like as good as we have experienced…lacked flavour and i think they were outsmarting themeselves in the over simple delivery.
