Posted by MONDELLO
Arriving in the afternoon after an easy drive from Erice we met our host at Villa Lille and were shown around to understand all the ins and outs. The Corleone Family (no relation) have owned the villa for a very long time and now they lease it out for holidays most of the year. It is one of the rare single level Villas in the Art Nouveau garden City of Mondello just 10kms outside Palermo and was just perfect for our multi-generational family holiday eing all on one level with plenty of space inside and out and private behind a garden wall and with a lovely pool. We ventured down to the beach, just a short 6 minute walk from the Villa and grabbed a quick meal at a local cafe as we were too early for the resturants. We took a beach walk and watched as the beach clubs were dismatled on the last day of the summer season and walked up to the Kursaal Bathhouse Pavillion that is set on piles about 10m off shore. it was built around the turn of the 20th century and is a stunning example of Art Nouveau/Liberty style of eclectic architecture of the time.
We did not have to wait long for the stead family to arrive with Grandma Janet in tow and after a few nibbles it was off to bed. No sleeo in the next morning as Teddy and fteya were all systems go early and before long we were all in the pool after breakfast and spent most of the time there until a big long walk before lunch.
It was a stunning day and we had done a big shop the day before so we settled on a feast for dinner after exploring the beach culture end to end.
Grandma Janet and NanNan Ann at the pavillion above. Teddy was determined to find castles to explore and this was his first exposure to one to which he exclaimed “its a bit small papa” and i could not argue with that .
Pa Pa’s attempt at a Sicilian Ragu which excited Teddy in theory but not in practice.
The Friggitoria Gastronomia on the beachfront created really nice Arranchini Balls and other nice treats for lunch
The stunning Mondello beach and its white sand was very much like home and from end to end the beach was about the same length as Manly to Queenscliff at home in Sydney.
The next day it was straiight to the beach and some fabulous water time for all. the water was perfect, crystal clear and polution free and Ann and I also grabbed a 30min massage on the beach.
freya and Teddy just loved the beach and it was hgard to get them to leave…but there is always tomorrow we said over and over.
It was not crowded at all so plenty of private room and i had to laugh at the Sicilian Gaggle (a rotesiore of friends who circle in the water up to thier bum line and chat) its how they have such all over tans.
Such a magical place to share with family and just what we all needed.
a Antipasto feast of fresh produce for lunch under the cabana, which is where Teddy and Freya wanted to eat every meal.
on our stroll up the beach Teddy had spotted “a cool Pizza bar” along the way so we headed there the next night and Teddy was really taken by the bar and the salami Pizza. Freya ate everything.
BORGO DEI PARRINI
Therte was a small village we had read about 40mins inland from Mondello that was worth a visit so we headed up there the next day through some really dodgy country side along a really dodgy road that Google maps took us and it looked like something from a war zone but we arrived at our destination and realised that the route was not the normal way to go but was probably an insight into the Siciliy of the past where the mafia had decimated regional economies and people abandoned places and never came back. but the Borgo dei Parrini is the opposite when local artist Giuseppe Gaglio decided to create a mini Barcelona and a tribute to Antoni Gaudi. He wanted to give life back to the village and went about renovating the old buildings in the gaudi style starting the 1970’s through to today as well as painting large murals on many walls including one of Spanish artist Frida
Amy, Tim, Freya and Teddy looking very relaxed.
Just two strets wide and with just one cross road there ais two cafe’s , one resturant and about 5 shops selling art and nick knacks as well as a facinating museum that one enterprising local has put together in a shed that charts the mechanical history of the region in very interesting ways.
The lady wving hello in the window was Teddy and Freya’s favourite artwork.
MONDELLO
A big feature of Mondello are the liberty Villas that were constructed between 1890 and 1920’s. Built in the Art Nouveau European style mostly influenced by Spanish Villas they dominate the landscape of the town which was developed by a Belgian Real Estate firm after they reclaimed a large swamp in the centre to create a 3 sqm km subdivision which was purchased by wealthy locals as well as people from all over Italy and Europe for their holiday homes.
this is just a small selection of the hundreds of Villas built at the time still standing.
PALERMO
We spent a day in Palermo and parked just outside the restricted zone in a parking station which was just a 15min walk to Palermo centro touristica. first stop was the impressive Theatro Massimo which is dedicated to Vivaldi. We did a tour inside as we love a good concert hall.
Walking down the Via Maqueda, the main pedestrian thoughofare, the crowds were visible immediatley and especially at the intersection with Via Vittorio Emanuele where the curved facade of the Quattro Canti is the focal point. There are some real show stoppers in the zone with the Piazza Pretoria and della Vergogna adjacent to the incomparable Church of St Catherine of Alessandria and the adjacent Monestry and I secret del Chiostro nuns bakery.
Canoli time in the cloisters of the Segreti del Chiostro and one of the Quattro Canti fountains
The Baroque excesses of St Catherine’s were mind blowing but in a beautiful way. we were captivated by the artistry, design excellence and amazing natural light. Everything was executed to perfection from the floors to the high domes and frescoed ceilings. But it was the finer details that really caught our eye, with relief panels and alter finesse that were stunning.
Across the Piazza Bellini there were two smaller churches from the Saracen (originally a mosque) and Norman period which highlights the ages of conquest. St Cataldo with its islamic Domes and St Mary with it’s Norman Tower.
There is a great renovation happening in Palermo as they throw of the yolk of Mafia dominance and celebrate thier past and thier future in a positive way. Old Palazzo like this one Palazzo Natoli are being given a new lease of life and bought back to their former glory.
The stunning facade of the Palermo Duomo is a mixture of so many styles and reflects the influence of the Byzantines, Saracens, Normans and Spanish over the centuries and the outcome is really very intentional and effective. inside is much plainer but very serene.
However the nearby Palatine Chapel of the Royal Palace is the complete opposite with incredible Byzantine/arabic inspired Mosaics that adorn every surface inside. built in 1132 it was unusual for the mosaic style to be used as most christian Churches of the time were of Gothic design, but Roger ll of Sicily held onto tradition and commissioned a masterpiece which shows the progression from earlier times to a more stylised and real facial depictions. the ceiling is very Arabic with carved intrictae designs and patterns.
The Painting below is located in the Sala Rossa di Normanni , the Sicilian Regional Assembly, seat of government inside the Royal Palace and to me depicts the environment of Sicily to perfection. Rolling hills and mountains with villages, castles and Prickly Pear everywhere.
Inside the Royal Palace there are rooms dedicated to the trade with China as well as fanciful recreation rooms.
The best room by far was the Sala Normanna, a mosaic tiled room from floor to arched ceiling that depicts stunning natural highlights which were designed purely for the joy of nature and built sometime around 1150 to 1200. An extraordinary feature so far ahead of its time.
The Staues outside the Duomo that surround the perimiter are all dedicated to women and have stood here sonce the 1200’s
The rustic streets of Palermo.
MONDELLO
Back in Mondello and a visit to a beach bar that had a playground which feya and Teddy were overjoyed with.
teddy had to strike a pose at every opportunity and he loved the “cool” mini car and the bikes and he thought the fountain was also excellent.
The Pavillion really is stunning and it is so good that it is now protected and is being looked after.
Villa Lille cabana and pool surrounds.
Mr Corleone cooked us a four coure dinner one night and it was amazing. Swordfish bake, Seafood Bouilliabaisse and the most amazing trio of Canoli for desert, Ricotta, pistacchio and chocolate.
The Classic italian Pine tree and rugged seaside mountains of sicily with beautiful blue waters.
The Last of the summer beach clubs looking a bit empty.
On our last day we visited the Palazzo Chinese which was built in 1799 for King Ferdinand of the House of Bourbon-Two Sicilies while he was in exile in Sicily during the Napolean years. it is in the Chinoiserie Eclecticism style…a real mothful which just means “crazy” style but it works brilliantly as a whimsical flight of fancy.
The stunning frescos were all created by Chinese craftsmen with local artisans execution and the authenticity is brilliant. The design incorporates some facinating features such as a magical dumb waiter dining table that delivers food to each guest via a lift below to the kitchens, two floors below in the basement. Extenally there are two spiral staircases on either side for staff to use.
It is so fanciful that european styles are mixed in with Oriental as well as Arabic ideas in there as well. This was really worth the visit asit is rare to find something so far out of the ordinary in those times.
A final walk along the beach on the morning of our ceparture and already the crowds were thinned out massively leaving a stunning deserted beach behind apart from a few Paddle boarders.
That was until on the way back to Villa the roar of Motor Bikes filled the air and within 15 minutes hundreds of Bikers had arrived for a meet. They were all part of GOOD BIKERS a worldwide organisation that does good for communiuties and this day they were gathering as a whole from all over Sicily to show support for prograns directed against violince towards women. they expected over 1,000 bikers to participate and when i was leaving after my chat to Mateo and Alex they were still pouring in.
And then after 6 blissful days it was time to say goodbye to the munchkins and go our seperate ways in the Uk before all of us minus Grandma were heading back to OZ.
