Posted by Arriving into Milano Centrale 90 mins late and our hire car has been reallocated and the drama begins….but all sorted and off we go in frustration mode onto the autostrada to lake Maggiore.Milano Centrale is a classic art Deco design on a massive scale and built on the same concept as Grand central in New York. Mussolini wanted to outshine America but although spectacular, its just not the same
Not a good frame of mind to have when a bit frazzled to be leaving Milano and head out into afternoon traffic, but we settled down and arrived at Stresa 90 mins later only slightly frazzled after sat Nav took us down the windiest streets it could find to the Lake from the Autostrada! But our little Citroen C3 was actually perfect for the narrow roads in the villages so it all worked out well. The apartment we have rented is in a big Villa converted to 5 apartments on the road into Stresa with a tricky driveway acess and egress, but we figure it out and settled into the grand old Villa with ease. The bed is good, its huge, well presented, the traffic is not too bad and the view is amazing.
First thing after a bit of quiet time in the apartment to settle in was to get into town for a wander and a find a meal. The town of Stresa runs along the lake and up the hill a few blocks and offers an abundance of dining options but not all open on a sunday night. Our host had given us his recommendations and we settled on Ristorante Cafe Torino on Piazza Luigi Cadorna and for our first Italian meal on the trip it was perfection. The town is classic Italian and the locals were fullfilling thier Passegiata obligations coming into Centro for an early evening wander.
There are some very eclectic buildings in Sresa and wonderful to see the creativity in design and adornment. back to the aprtment for a well deserved early sleep and a bit more of a look around Villa Niobe.
A hazy, wet good morning view awaited us the next day so no visiting the Islands today so we choose to vist the local area, do some shopping in a heavy downpour and see the lakeside Villa we were going stay in back in 2020 when Covid cancelled that trip. Located just a few km’s up the lake in Baveno, Villa Beatrice was right on the water in a lovely setting on the lakefront.
It is right in front of the amazing Villa Henfrey Branca built by a Scottish industrialist in pure Gothic style 200 years ago. it looked very Scottish within the mist shrounded hills.
The Lakes are dotted with fabulous Vills from the Golden Age of the Grand tour and the wealthy new merchants and Industrialists from all over Europe and the USA who built villas throughout the 18th and 19th centuries. One very special one was just a few 100 metres from our villa along the lake and apart from the beautiful Italiante style of Villa Pallavicino the grounds are beautiful and the original zoo is still in operation for free ranging animals . its was wett the whole day so a few little excursions was all we could really achieve.
Having had a big lunch in Baveno we settled back into the Villa early and munched on some light salad and chesse before another early night. The next day arrived with a lovely sunrise and clear blue skies ready for our lake exploration to the Borromean Islands.
The Ferries run regularily all day so its just a matter of understanding the timetables to make the right connections as our plan was to start in Stresa and head over early to Villa Taranto gardens and then wind our way back via Pallanza village, Isola Madre, Isola Pescatori and then Isola Bella. Our timing was precise to fit it all in and it took the whole day and the sun shone perfectly all day long.
The ferries were mostly on time bar one but that did not upset the timing at all so we thoughly enjoyed our time out on the water around Lago Maggiore. The shore is covered in grand Hotels and private Villas, some is stunning condition and others very dillapedated, but all with plenty of stories to tell.
Isola Pecatori and then Isola Madre with mostly snow cleared Swiss Alps in the background apart from the still snow covered high peaks of Helsenhorn further away.
First stop was Villa Tarano at Intra in Verbania and the setting was fabulous with its grand gated entry on the lake right at the ferry stop
The whole area of park adjoins Intra town and is littered with facinating features and of course another fabulous villa established by another Scottish Industrialist/railway builder.
It was back down on the lake after a big walk through the winding gaden paths for the next ferry ride but not before a morning tea stop at the Riva Lake Verbania cafe and a lovely coffee and pastry refreshment and this stunning view over the lake and mountains to the east. Next stop Pallanza for a wait between Ferries to Isola Madre and a wander around the small town with its views to the south and its facinating old glass postered cafe Bella Rose Bistrot. The facade is covered in liqour advertising from the turn of the century and is so well preserved.
Next stop Isola Madre and a crowded ferry to get there as the crowds have slowly built as the morning has progressed. The small island is dominated by the beautiful Palazzo isola Madre which is a perfect example of a 16th century Italianate palazzo and is still decorated in the 16th and 17th century style. The gardens are truly amazing with an abundance of bird life and scattered with plants from all over the world including many Australian species such as Tasmainian Blue gums and Cootamunda wattles.
Exotic fouls roam free around the island and the paths meander to take you on a facinating journey past grottos and open spaces, deep dark forests and tropical wonderlands of landscaping, all on such a small island.
We had booked lunch at the recommended Ristorante Verbania on Isloa Pescatori which was our next stop and we were setated in a stunning spot right on the water beneath a canopy of trellised greenery. the 3 course meal was brilliant, the views back to Verbania and out to isola Bella and the weather were all perfect.
The grand Palazzo Borromeo on Isola Grande and its terraced Regalia gardens were what you would expect from the opulent Borromeo family. Over the top but elegant in every way as you take the tour through the palazzo with its grand halls and equally grand grottos before emerging into the stunning gardens and open air Teatro Massimo and its regallia terraces.
Our time in Stresa at an end it was another wet day that greeted us for our short journey to Orta San Guilio but first we were not going to waste a day so headed up the valley past Parko Della La Grande mountains to Domodossolo and the Sacro Monte Calvario and its hilltop chapels following the signs of the cross. The curch cieling was truly stunning with its flying christ and amazing frescos and the staue carvings in the chapels depicted some very life life 3D biblical settings
The misty mountains surrounding the chapels added to the mystical feeling and the castle ruins added to the alure and we were glad we saw it like this
